Turtle Mountain, straddling the Canada-United States border in Bottineau and Rolette counties, is often referred to as a “forested island in a grassland sea.” Because Turtle Mountain lies around 600-800 feet above the surrounding prairie, an orographic effect results in a notable increase in the effective precipitation on Turtle Mountain, resulting in conditions favorable to forest development.
The Turtle Mountain forest constitutes roughly 17% of all the state’s native forest, and contains about 20% of North Dakota’s rare and endangered plants, as well as the state’s only floating Sphagnum bog. Turtle Mountain also supports an array of wildlife populations, including ruffed grouse, deer, elk, martin, bald eagles, and pileated woodpeckers. The moose population, once high enough to support a limited hunting season, however, has plummeted.
Historically, the forest covered almost all of the Turtle Mountain uplands. The bulk of the land on the American side is privately owned, and historically the forest was generally regarded as having little economic value. As such, it has been estimated that more than half of the forest has been converted to cropland, pasture, or other uses. Some wooded tracts still remain in private ownership, and Homen State Forest, Turtle Mountain State Forest, and Wakopa State Game Management Area are among the wooded public lands.
The forest on the Canadian side of Turtle Mountain, however, is noticeably more intact. With European settlement on the Canadian side during the 1880s, several sawmills were operating to provide wood for building materials, heating homes, etc. But it by the 1890s it became apparent that restrictions were necessary, so with encouragement of some railroad companies (that needed a supply of railroad ties), in 1895 the Minister of Interior marked out 75,000 acres of forest to establish the “Turtle Mountain Timber Reserve.”
Fast-forward to the 1930s when the reserve was put under provincial management. Recreation was encouraged and some of the area lakes were stocked with fish. Then, in 1959, a portion was designated as a community pasture. Finally, in 1961, about two townships of the forest reserve became Turtle Mountain Provincial Park.
The next time you’re traveling in the area, give some consideration to why and how this interesting forest exists. And make a point to check out the Canadian side as well.
