As the Eighteenth Century faded into the rearview mirror, things were changing at a mind-boggling pace. Americans began to take to the roads in automobiles. Horse-drawn streetcars were giving way to electric vehicles. Visitors to the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis marveled at flying machines and electric coffee makers and dishwashers. The world was on the verge of a new age.
But not everything was changing so quickly. For hundreds of years, women’s dresses had one acceptable length: down to the floor. Amelia Bloomer tried to give women more freedom when she introduced a new style in the mid-1800s. Her long trousers were worn under calf-length skirts, enhancing a woman’s ability to engage in sports like cycling and tennis. However, the style was not widely adopted.
While technology advanced at top speed, fashion remained much the same. Through the first decade of the Twentieth Century, modest, floor-length dresses worn over tight corsets were standard for women. Modesty was key. Dresses covered the body from neck to floor, and sleeves covered the arms, except for evening wear when women were allowed to be somewhat more daring.
On this date in 1906, the Williston Graphic gave a lesson to women on how to properly wear a floor-length dress. It was often necessary to lift the skirt of the dress when walking or going up stairs. The newspaper cautioned women against grabbing the front of the skirt and pulling it up. “Such a pose,” warned the article, “is bound to be very ungraceful.” Instead, the woman should take the skirt near the back and pull it forward and upward.
Sitting down was a critical move. Women should avoid attracting attention by ruffling the skirt and making noise. Instead, they should sit down quietly with their backs straight and always remember to keep their knees together. Once seated, they should flare their skirts out like a fan. Rehearsing this move in private was recommended so women would feel comfortable and confident when sitting in public.
Hemlines began to rise during World War I as more women went to work in factories, with a mid-calf length being acceptable. During the wild Roaring Twenties, society was shocked when women routinely showed their knees in short dresses. While hemlines have gone up and down since then, long dresses for daily wear never came back into style.
Dakota Datebook by Dr. Carole Butcher
Sources:
- Williston Graphic. “Grace and Good Manners.” Williston ND. 10/25/1906. Page 3.
- Fashion History Timeline. “Bloomers.” https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bloomers/ Accessed o9/23/2024.
- Women’s History Network. “The History of Hemlines.” https://womenshistorynetwork.org/the-history-of-hemlines/ Accessed 9/23/2024.
